International Women's Day - Tibet Style

I have to say, (and Edwin agrees with me) that it is much easier for women to make connections with each other, even with barriers of language and culture. I feel very lucky to have met some very nice ladies in Tibet, and to have had some special contact with them. While in Gyantse (on the first night of our jeep tour), we visited the local monastery, and a woman was there with a young boy of five years, who we were playing with - chasing him, holding hands, etc. We were sitting with the woman, and she pulled two small pieces of turquoise out of her pocket. From what we could understand, they were her mother's, and her mother had died. She gave them to me and motioned for me to loop them through my earrings. I tried to give her one of my silver rings, and then my woolen hat, and then a pair of mittens for the boy, but she refused all gifts - very nice.

Then, on March 8, it was International Women's Day. They really know how to celebrate in Tibet! We began our day in Sakya, and everyone was heading down to the grounds behind the monastery, with horses, carts and donkeys in tow. So, we followed - there was a huge festival going on in honour of Women's Day. All the locals were dressed in their traditional costume (which they wear everyday), but with gorgeous fur hats, and their best jewellery. We wandered through the crowd, having a good look. Most people were quite camera shy, except for the young boys, who loved to have their photos taken, and then view themselves in the digital camera.

Reluctantly, we left for our next destination, Toshi Zong (on the way to Everest Base Camp). When we arrived, there was a group of ladies (about 14 women, ranging in age from about 17 to 50), in the kitchen area of our guesthouse. Our guide, Jabu, told us that they were collecting money for their party later on. On Women's Day, the local men must give the ladies money to celebrate. One older lady was counting the collection, and she had over 2,000 yuan (more than $300 CAD). They ate dinner together, and had yak butter tea, and then the beer started. And red wine mixed with Sprite. Soon, I was asked to join, and one older lady kept pouring me shot glasses full of beer. To begin the party, the young women sing to the older ladies and pour for them. The way the Tibetans toast is one sip for God, one sip for your parents, and then drain the glass to toast your friends. After a little while, they were teaching me Tibetan swear words, and making funny/rude gestures pointing upstairs where Edwin had retired to leave the ladies alone. It was a funny experience - the only Tibetan words I know are hello and thank-you, yet it is amazing what you can communicate with laughter, smiles, winks and nudges.
I left the party long before it was over, to giggles from the ladies as to what may happen in our bedroom upstairs. The next morning when we went downstairs for breakfast at 8:00, the kitchen was full of empty beer and wine bottles, and the woman who ran the kitchen was rubbing her head as she served us our tea - she hadn't made it to bed until 6:00 am!


Location: Kathmandu, Nepal